Percussion-impact drills stand between Universal drills bits/ Hammer drills bits and serve in FassadenGrün's range with the purpose to produce perfect dowel holes using an impact drill. Percussion drills usually have a round shank, they can transmit the vibrations produced by the drilling machine into hard materials and thus drilling in concrete, clinker, and medium-hard natural stone is possible. In addition, they are a normal drill, without shock effect when it is not used. Then usually for normal, plastered masonry. Please also use the tips on the drilling if necessary.
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Percussion drill bits are 'two edged' and always work with a soldered-forward, two-edged carbide plate. Every handyman has such bits, so why buy a new ones? We want to explain briefly. For greening aids of FassadenGrün - except when applied with a bonding mortar - perfect bores are necessary. Therefore, we recommend new, sharp drill bits! The holes must not be oval, but have to be perfectly round, so that the expansion pressure of the plug is evenly distributed in all directions. Furthermore, the holes must be neither too large nor too small. Fuzzy drills produce often larger holes due to missing the center, worn drill bits also produce too narrow dowel holes. In both cases there are problems when you mount the holder: Either the rawl plugs find no hold in the bore and ' spin ', or they sit too tightly and the holders and can be barely screwed.
Our appeal: Buy new suitable bits for your growth aids.
The two carbide cutting percussion drills can be reground by hand, done best on special grinding wheels. A little is ground away at the level of carbide plate. That makes sense with dowel holes only if the width of the hard metal plate if the width of the hard metal record is not worn yet clearly under the drill measure (see Photo).
Hammer or percussive drilling initially means only that the drill bits are suitable for percussive drilling, so that they can tolerate the switching on of "hit" function. According to the suitability for different types of walls: Concrete drill bits are extremely resistant, higher quality, and usable in all types of stone, while masonry drill bits are usually cheaper and less resilient and used in softer material. Your hard metal plating on bits is thinner and not as massive in the drill shaft (see Photos). There are even special masonry drill bits for bricks and roof tiles, can not tolerate 'shock' and thus are no Hammer bit. 'Masonry drill' again is a very general term rather for long drills, ie. with cable bushings.
In this segment of persussion drill bits FassadenGrün offers a "Hobby" - Line: With these stone drill bits, you can also use them to fill-in for your missing bits. For high demands as an alternative there is a "professional" - Cassette, whose concrete drill bits with powerful machine (> 750 watts) in the toughest substrates drilling. A 16 mm masonry drill bit for cases of insulation rounds off the range. With each growth aid kit and also for each individual wall holder, you will find the necessary drill diameter for mounting.
In materials such as reinforced concrete, hard-baked (historical) clinkers with inclusions and sintered bodies, and in very hard natural stone such as granite, hammer bits show their limits. They should then possibly be pre-drilled with a smaller diameter, or a machine with more power is needed. Otherwise hammers and consequently 'hammer drill bits' with SDS-Plus shank would be required. Even with special facades made of wood, plastic, etc. Hammer drills are unsuitable here and a universal drill will be used.