Natural stone facades -- rubble masonry -- can be made from custom-cut blocks of stone or rough pieces left as their are. Depending on the type of stone, very large, but also quite small stone formats are possible. Regardless of size, the stones are always set in mortar, the joints of which can vary in size from very broad (especially in quarry stone masonry) to very narrow and inconspicuous in large worked stone blocks.
Natural stones of a facade may be strongly weathered, cracked and/or torn. If this is the case, then they must be plastered before any drilling can be done (becoming plaster masonry). Always check the load-bearing capacity of the stones before installing a climbing aid system!
Even projecting elements of a wall, like ledges, cantilevers, cornices, etc.. can be made of natural stone-- like sandstone, which is soft and relatively weak. Therefore we recommend that you only attempt to attach a trellis fitting if the facade is thick enough, and to err on the side of caution by using a expansion-pressure free installation method, i.e. bonding with composite mortar as opposed to rawlplugs.
In the case of severe unevenness in the masonry, we recommend that you use wall anchors with an extra long, protruding shaft to allow you to create sufficient distance from the wall. You may find it necessary to use more mounts than originally planned, because some anchor points may not be able to be used.
All 5 FassadenGrün construction styles, with their standard wall anchors, are compatible with this material and can be fastened in the stones or in the joints, or if necessary-- in the stones *and* in the joints. If attaching in narrow stone elements- like cornices or cantilevers- avoid any kind of expansion anchor (plastic/metal plugs) as they exert too much pressure on the rock and will do too much damage. Use an expansion-free anchor secured with composite mortar. Hammer drills, universal drills, and percussion drills are all equally suitable.