Drilling for Climbing Aids

After buying climbing aids from FassadenGrün - for plants such as Wisteria, Roses, Clematis or other - please always follow the drilling information needed to adhere to walls. These can be found on this pages tips and rules, but the list is not exhaustive. It is only a complement to the respective product data sheets and is a reference for lay and handymen who rarely do such mounting. For some types of walls there are some specific instructions; such as for concrete and plastered walls.

  • Each drilled hole for climbing aids represents a risky intervention in an existing structure. Inform yourself about the type and nature of your wall.

  • Make sure that the area of ​​your drilling hits NO electric cables, pipelines and such which are often inside the masonry. Be extra careful with the 'flush' lines which are also laid inside the outer house walls sometimes.

  • Even drilling in areas of lintels, ceilings, ring beams, and the like, can be problematic depending on the type of wall and it maybe best to stay away from there.

  • For free standing walls of masonry bricks or natural stones holes are not possible in border areas (less than about 25 cm from the wall edge) because possible cracks and spalling may originate. Fortifications near the mural crown or the wall edges should be done without 'expansion pressure', ie without drilling and plugs, but by bonding with composite mortar.

  • Run (for wire-foot points in concrete decks, etc.) from the seal because only with bonding mortar lying fortifications.

  • Draw the drill points in the form of a crosshair (photo).

  • In low light and glare use in addition a second, differently colored pen for safe recovery of the points marked (photo).

  • Use pencils, chalk, crayons and such for marking. They should leave traces but be completely able to be removed with an eraser. Mark an inconspicuous spot as a sample, if necessary.

  • Draw first ALL points before you start drilling. This allows you to make corrections if still necessary.

  • Use a mason's string or a laser especially with long and high distances and in several drill points in succession for vertical and horizontal calibration of the drill points (photos).

  • If the harmonious arrangement of the climbing aid on representative walls plays a particularly important role for you, best to do as follows: Select all drill points on the wall and firmly mark them with your pencil, then take some pictures. Print this, draw corresponding to the visible boreholes all your future cable lines, compare the result with your plan and discuss it with the client/ contractor if necessary, before you start drilling. Also a direct visualization of the climbing aid by small nails fastened and wall string (photo) is possible.

  • Holes > 8 mm are pre-drilled with a smaller drill bit (8 mm), only then the 'right' drill bit is scheduled.

  • For large bore diameters and on hard surfaces - see above -. A hammer drill is needed instead of a percussion drill.

  • Make sure that the shafts of your drill bit and the chuck of the drill match, so that the drill is secure in the chuck.

  • Use new, sharp drill bits from our range. Old bits are often worn out, slip, beat and vibrate during drilling and do not produce the exact required hole diameter.

  • Secure the perimeter against falling objects when working at heights.

  • Work with protective goggles and hair protection (helmet, cap or headscarf). Hair caught in a drill bit hurts!

  • Determine the required hole depth specified by the anchor (usually anchor length plus approx. 1 cm) and adjust the depth if possible via a drill stop.

  • Work best in pairs, so that a person drills and the other controls the correct posture of the machine from the top and from the side, possibly using a spirit level and angle (photos). To avoid oblique holes.

  • Long wall brackets with freestanding shanks are subject to load and elastic deformation due to the rope force, approximately in the range of 0 to 2 mm.  Drill holes for end brackets of ropes therefore a slight angle, oppositely inclined to the tension, so up to approx.  2-5 degrees by way of derogation from the normal line, so that the element better 'can press against the load' and the visual impression is correct.  If set too obliquely,  the function of support discs cannot be guaranteed.  Setting an angle does not require intermediate supports.

  • Initially, optionally with pilot holes of a smaller diameter can underground be 'explored' or checked out, and then holes closed. The closing of failed dry holes is carried out with an acceptable fill material or mixture for outdoor use.

  • To prevent spalling (approx. 1 cm) drilling without percussion drill should be carried out, switched on if necessary after that distance.

  • Follow the course of your drilling, especially the uniform penetration of the drill. If there is irregularity, stop the work and investigate the cause, for example, use a torch or flashlight with a point light source and look into the hole. In a negative case, it is a joint hole, which sometimes does not work with dowels. Even with a pre-drilled stone edge or a corner stone - recognizable by restless drilling sounds, a 'runaway' of the drill, and the color of the stone dust - ruling  out drilled anchors, here one should secure anchors with composite mortar. Likewise voids are to be treated with  old wooden dowel or plaster bodies.

  • Catch the dust while you are drilling or brush/suck it out after to avoid ugly dust clouds, which can be difficult to quickly remove sometimes. One possibility is, for example, by means of plastic clay glued under the drill hole, then place a small cup/box to catch dust, designated by painters named as a 'Naumann shear box' and can be removed again after drilling.

  • Prior to insertion of dowels, holes are to be brushed and blown out, if possible, drawn out with hand pump. You should have such equipment for cleaning boreholes or buy them if necessary in the online shop

  • For wall mount with retaining washers, a large enough flat surface must be ensured. By chiseling off or even sanding with coarse sandpaper can be on done on any surface to help connections and flattening.

  • Dry holes are sealed with a conventional market sealants and putty for exterior use. The appearance of the sealed hole can be made to look unnoticeable using the collected and sprinkled dust from drilling put over the putty .

Climbing aid stainless steel rope, for a climbing Rose
Climbing aid made of stainless steel wire rope
working with string, here installation of trellis anchors
working with string
Visualization of future climbing aids with cord or string
Visualising the future climbing aid
Marking the drill points
Horizontal drilling
Milling out insulation
Blowing out bore holes
For longer distances, the horizontal marking often causes problems and leads to poorly aligned holders. Use string or cord, or even laser devices when marking in such cases.
Aligned wire rope holders
Drill holes for heavily loaded climbing aid end holders (meaning the outer most holder), can be arranged at a slight angle, about 3 - 5 degrees, leaning outwards. This way, the holders can stem against the tension direction.
Stainless steel climbing aid