For attaching growth aids to insulation, there are several possibilities, one of which is still new super-sized version with support bodies and supporting cone. This page shows the assembly and thus complements the product sheet of WM 12XX9. The assembly is also for the handyman feasible, but some special tools are needed, such as the cylindrically d = 60 mm or similar tool with center, the other a masonry drill 16 mm and mixer extensions. It is recommended to work in parallel on several holes. For many holders, a motorized applicator gun facilitates the work (not in the FassadenGrün's assortment).
At first only drill as far until the drill bit is filled with insulating material. Pull the drill bit back, clean, possibly stab insulation back in wall, start bit again and drill down until a complete 60 mm cylinder insulation is removed and the center drill has drilled underground. Clean bore, e.g. with a vacuum cleaner.
Before increasing the internal bore, alignment is checked again. For this, the M12 threaded rod or other rod is stopped there and the outside is controlled by angle to check if the bore is perfectly vertical, perpendicular everywhere, if necessary, it is corrected and probed. The deferred hardwood cylinder WM 12XX9 can serve as centering.
Mostly an extra-long hammer bit is necessary, up to 16 cm insulation thickness with hammer drill. The drill diameter is typically 16 mm, especially in the use of perforated sleeves SD 16130 (in hollow masonry). Also, an annular gap of 2 mm thickness is more favorable than 1 mm because the poorly heat-conducting layer of mortar heat bridge is reduced. In exceptional cases, also can be drilled with 14 mm. Drilling depth when using perforated sleeve: approximately 14 cm. Drilling depth without mesh sleeve: anchoring depth (about 9-12 cm) plus 1 cm.
The manufacture of the hollow cone is carried out with an angle of approximately 50 degrees, thus slightly slimmer than that shown in the graphs. Depending on the insulating material, the hollow mold by drilling / milling is prepared using masonry drill bits, by cutting with knives or simply by pressing aside the insulating material. Important: Front must remain a cylindrical area of about 6 -7 cm length and 6 cm in diameter (possibly inside a ring with marker pen, mark), only behind is expanded. The outer edge of the hole should be undamaged. Any existing gap between the supporting wall and insulation board is filled with insulating material residues.
The mold and the rear hole is brushed, blown out. The rear wall must be cleaned of insulation pieces so that the composite mortar then finds the best possible contact surface. If the back is hollow masonry, the sieve tube is inserted first. For solid masonry, this step is omitted.
In a hollow cone, coil reinforcement of 1.2 mm stainless steel wire is produced, wire length ca- 1-5 m depending on the cone size. The wire is irregularly bent and crumpled during insertion. It is a loose, not too tight a tangle so that further steps are not made unnecessarily difficult. Important: bend ends of wire in, in case they shoot out of hole into eye, etc...
When gluing the threaded rods, proceed according to the instruction sheets of the composite mortar (initial zero-strand, temperatures, open times, curing times). If necessary, fit in a mixing tube extension. Important: place into back of the hole, then slowly pull out the mixing tube. Only the rear drilling or the sieve shell is filled with mortar, however richly, so that a mortar excess may also stay in the hollow cone.
The threaded rod is carefully inserted through the rotating coil-reinforcement and then filled with mortar in the hole or perforated sleeve. Initially, extracted swelling mortar already bonded the wire carrier to the wall base. The insertion depth should be such that the outside front of the insulation of the planned wall distance 6-7 cm is achieved. To safeguard against sagging the hardwood retaining body as lock is mounted in the front.
Beginning at the farthest, deepest point of the cone and now fill with composite mortar. For many holders, better use a motorized applicator gun! The mass of about 3/4 of the first cartridge should be evenly distributed and dense as in a tub. The last quarter of the cartridge is positioned differently - see next graphic...
The last quarter of the first cartouche is expressed in the lower, front region of the hollow cone, and in a way that there is a kind of 'dam' of composite mortar obtained, which is then built up in layers and ever higher, but is not filled to the front cylinder cone area of the hole, where even the hardwood support body is placed later.
Even with the second and possibly even 3, 4 and 5, cartouche filling of the hollow cone will initially continue in the rear lower area, are used up to about 3/4 of the cartridge. It is possible to work 'wet on wet', the mortar prior cartridge still has to be solidified.
Whenever a cartridge/cartouche is slowly empty but still a large cavity in the hollow cone is visible, the last quarter of the cartridge is again used to continue working on the modeling of the 'dam' in the transition region of the cylinder / cone. A gap of 1.5 - 2 cm upward but should remain.
If the final filling of the hollow cone, material is pressed on vigorously until the front starts to withdraw and close the gap. The mixing tube is slowly withdrawn now, but is further pressed, so that front in the area of the mortar dam a larger quantity of fresh composite mortar accumulates, in which the hardwood body can be pasted.
The cartridge is now pulled back, the tape on the threaded rod is at least in the front removed. Then the hardwood support body is pushed and rotationally pressed into the mortar mass, until it begins to emerge at the sides the timber body. Then, the M 12- full nut is turned in order to secure this state until setting. The timber body should end approximately flush with the wall, or even considerably lower in the wall.
If the load carrying capacity is reached according to the setting time indicated on the mortar cartridge, the hex nut is removed first. There are now so many plastic discs d = 50 mm h = 1.5 mm threaded, until the so-called 'spacer' (from hardwood body and plastic washers) are out 2-3 mm from the wall. Sometimes, only 0-2 discs are required, but sometimes 10-15 pieces!
Now cover panel is pushed (with sealing ring) and spring washer, then the full-nut M 12 tightened until the bracket is tight. Only the element gets its load capacity. The first 5 mm thick gasket is now regulated and pressed together without the EWIS being deformed. If the 'spacer block' is less than 2mm above the hole, there may be concave deformation of the stainless steel cover plate when tightening the nut.