This section of "exposed masonry" covers the attachment of our wire rope or rods trellises into the external wall –or leaf– of double leaved masonry, which are often designed to look like modern clinker walls, however they can also be plastered so be sure to confirm the walls actual material before drilling. Extremely lightweight outer walls, such as ceramic or plastic tiles and curtain walls facing air space can be found under 'Facade panels'.
Weather shells are the external wall –or leaf– of double leaf masonry structure. The inner wall is load bearing whereas the external 'weather shell' is not, it acts solely as a protective layer against prolonged weathering and the two are generally connected using metal wall ties and the minimum cavity width tends to be 50mm. The insulation material will be fitted between the two leaves and must always be in contact with the internal wall, however, there is often a layer of air 4-6cm between the insulation and the weather shell, in which are often small slits for ventilation and drainage in case of inner condensation.
In contrast to conventional domestic dwellings, in which all walls are connected at the corners, weather shells are usually separated at the corners by long, vertical, expansion joints. Consequently, each wall is separate and theoretically can be made portable with little effort, in the event of an extension for example. Although this is convenient, it also means that these walls are more fragile and therefor sensitive to weighty, loaded trellises. The durability of weather shells varies greatly depending on type, design and the proficiency of its installation. If a shell already shows cracks at the joints, window corners, etc. this is just cause to eliminate them before greening up the building. When it comes to a water shell the third and forth upper rows of bricks and near the corners should be avoided in order to prevent cracking as described in 'Walls'. Even 25-40cm from the corners should be 'expansion pressure free' meaning no wall anchors, anything that is secured within the wall should be done so using composite mortar.
Before attaching growth aid elements from FassadenGrün, check if there are any rules in your particular case for mounting on your home that must be observed. Either those rules refer to the construction-inferiority (i.e. with pre-fabricated buildings) or formulated individually by the construction company. Because greening aids are not mentioned explicitly, local regulations are binding for similar objects. Light growth aids of FassadenGrün are present for treatments for example of mailboxes and outside lamps, the easy and medium construction kits then rather like projecting shop signs and satellite bowls as well as the heavy and massive construction kits analogously to awnings.
Usually, it is dictated that fixtures in the outer shell and the load-bearing wall are not permitted, because both components need to move independently of each other when tension and 'jamming' are not permitted. Also, any pressure as a result of tightened bolts nuts, etc. is to be avoided for fixtures in the inner wall, because that pushes the outer shell against the inside wall (jamming) and leads to cracks in the masonry.
All this boils down to is that fixtures alone in weather shell must be all created for all the loads 'taken' and 'released'. The wire connection anchor between the two shells can be a support to transfer loads on the inner wall. It should be noted that this anchor is at a greater length, so if a ventilation is bridged, it can take on only tensile forces however, and not pressure forces due to bulging and dimple formations of weather shell.
The Light kits of FassadenGrün are quite safe and suitable for every type of weather shell. When it comes to our Easy kits, however, the eyelet screw must be deeply secured and the distance between the wall and wire rope of the trellis remains restricted to 2-3cm and the wire holders cannot be excessively tightened.
The medium style "Eco" Kit is usually also usable, as are the "Classic" and "Premium" however with these two the wire rope should not be extremely tensioned tensions and the grub screws in the supports should be tensioned only adequately, not fully to allow the rope some give in the event of overloading. The fastening can be carried out into brick, stone, or joint.
In this case our heavy and massive styles are best avoided, however, if you feel the need for a more heavy duty kit, we recommend one of the medium designs, preferably "Premium" because there is very little expansion pressure. The holders are set closer to each other - approximately 0.8m to 1.0m instead of 1.5 m to 1.8 m - thus the tension is better distributed over more evenly spaced, anchored points. Another alternative are metal rod trellises, as they force less pressure on the anchor due to their rigid structure, which results in the weather shell being less stressed.
For drilling we recommend hammer drill HB 44444.