This page is part of the "exposed masonry" section. It covers building wall vegetation with wire ropes or rods in so-called "weather shells "(protective brick skin), that often present themselves as modern clinker walls. Extremely light weather shells, such as ceramic or plastic plates and also ', rain screen facades' can be found under 'Facade panels'. Weather shells can also be plastered in exceptional cases. Please consult in addition with any questions.
Weather shells keep sun, wind, and rain away from the facade and only hold up themselves. They are therefore "non-load-bearing walls and are located in front of a heat insulated wall, on the ceiling and the roof. Both wall layers are connected to plug anchors or stainless steel rods and hot 'bi-valve brickwork', together with the intervening 'core insulation' then 'sandwich facades' Often is located between the insulation and outer shell or with an air space layer of 4 - 6 cm, then in the outer shell there are typically slits or small openings for ventilation and drain water if inner condensation occurs.
In contrast to classic house building, where all stable exterior walls are connected and stiffened and supported by the corners of the building ('cornerstones'), weather shells are usually interrupted by long vertical expansion joints that divide the sections of the wall at the corners. Each wall is, so to speak, separate, making it portable with extensions, etc., but also more fragile and sensitive to loads of growth aid elements, etc. The capacity of weather shells can vary considerably depending on the type, design, and execution. And if a shell already shows cracks at joints, window corners, etc., these are a cause to eliminate them, before greening up the building.
Greening in the 3-4 upper rows of the brick weather shell and near the corners fixtures should be avoided in order to prevent cracking as described in 'walls'. Even 25 - 40 cm from the corners should be 'expansion pressure free', without anchors and secured only with bonding mortar.
Before attaching growth aid elements from FassadenGrün, check if there are any rules in your particular case for mounting on your home that must be observed. Either those rules refer to the construction-inferiority (i.e. with pre-fabricated buildings) or formulated individually by the construction company. Because greening aids are not mentioned explicitly, local regulations are binding for similar objects. Light growth aids of FassadenGrün are present for treatments for example of mailboxes and outside lamps, the easy and medium construction kits then rather like projecting shop signs and satellite bowls as well as the heavy and massive construction kits analogously to awnings.
Usually, it is dictated that fixtures in the outer shell and the load-bearing wall are not permitted, because both components need to move independently of each other when tension and 'jamming' are not permitted. Also, any pressure as a result of tightened bolts nuts, etc. is to be avoided for fixtures in the inner wall, because that pushes the outer shell against the inside wall (jamming) and leads to cracks in the masonry.
All this boils down to is that fixtures alone in weather shell must be all created for all the loads 'taken' and 'released'. The wire connection anchor between the two shells can be a support to transfer loads on the inner wall. It should be noted that this anchor is at a greater length, so if a ventilation is bridged, it can take on only tensile forces however, and not pressure forces due to bulging and dimple formations of weather shell.
As experience shows, the Light kits of FassadenGrün are quite safe and in every "stone weather shell" applicable. As applied to the Easy kits, however, the eyes should be screwed in deeply, the wall distance of the ropes remains restricted to 2-3 cm. The wire holders also cannot be excessively tightened. The medium style "Eco" is usually also usable, at "Classic" and "Premium" the wire rope bias tensions are executed a little less than usual, and the grub screws in the supports should be tensioned only adequately, not fully, so that the rope can “slip” a bit at overload. The fastening can be carried out into brick, stone, or joint.
The heavy and massive styles are, in case of doubt, better to be avoided. Alternatively, one of the medium designs can be used, preferably "Premium" because there is very little expansion pressure. The holders are then set closer to each other, i.e. all approximately 0.8 m to 1.0 m instead of 1.5 m to 1.8 m. Then the tension is distributed on more anchor points and are "carried” more uniformly in the wall. Another alternative are rod systems, because there occurs less high tension at the holders and thus the brick clinker shell is less stressed.
For drilling we recommend hammer drill HB 44444.