Installation After: Installing into ETICS after insulation panels are installed

The insulation material must be at least 12 cm thick and board-like (panel-like)-- e.g. polystyrene / EPS rigid foam, mineral wool, etc.. Behind the insulation layer there must be a load-bearing substrate such as concrete, natural stone, solid masonry, hollow masonry, or aerated concrete brick.

A Ø 94 mm (XP 12XX3) or Ø 127 mm (XP12XX5) cylinder saw is required, as well as a Ø 16 mm hammer drill or for insulation panels thicker than 16 cm ~ an

extra long hammer drill

A laser is useful for marking the drilling points. Alternatively, plumb bob cords and a laser spirit level can be used to quickly mark the corner points. You will also need a folding rule and two 19 mm open-end wrenches. An angle and a mini spirit level can help align the drill. A Ø 16 mm drill hole brush and a blower (or a compressor / compressed air) are needed to clean your drill holes; a vacuum cleaner to remove the drilling dust is also recommended. For attaching the steel cables, additional tools -- like a cable cutter and 1 - 2 assembly vices -- will be very useful.

Beginners and do-it-yourselfers-- please consult our info sheet on drilling operations before proceeding! Mark the drilling point and place the cylinder saw at the marked location. Then adjust the position of the drill bit with a spirit level and/or an angle; proceed with drilling. Check the alignment of the drill in all directions while drilling!

The cylinder is milled out and removed. The substrate will be smoothed later.

The 16 mm drill bit is aligned using a spirit level and/or a square. Then drill – to a depth of approx. 14 cm if using mesh sleeves. Without a mesh sleeve, the following formula applies: anchoring depth (approx. 9–12 cm) plus 1 cm.

Any remaining adhesive from the insulation boards is removed using a drill.

The hollow formwork and the rear borehole must be brushed out, blown out and vacuumed, preferably several times. If there is hollow brickwork at the rear, the screen sleeve should be inserted first. This step is not required for solid brickwork. The support structure, including the threaded rod (‘body’), can now be inserted on a trial basis.

Please now follow the instructions for the composite mortar (initial zero-strand, temperatures, open times, curing times). Use a mixing tube extension if necessary. The cartridge should be at least half full to avoid interruptions. Important: Start at the back of the drill hole and slowly pull the mixing tube out. Then proceed immediately to step 07.

Check whether the composite mortar cartridge still contains enough mortar (approx. 1/4 of a cartridge) to continue working without interruption. Then remove the two transport locks from the body and set them aside. Next, apply the composite mortar very thickly in a spiral “bead” onto the back of the body. In exceptional cases – if the air gap between the insulation and the load-bearing wall was larger than expected – the front side is bonded.

Press the "body" together with the threaded rod against the wall to bond it in place, ideally whilst "turning it slightly" so that the mortar can spread evenly and adapt to the substrate until the body is in full contact with the surface (important!). If there is a large gap around the edge, fix the body in place if necessary and prevent it from "sagging", e.g. by inserting matches into the gap. Observe the curing time (see composite mortar cartridge).

Continue combining and stacking the plastic spacer discs (h=5 mm and h=1.5 mm) until the entire "spacer block" protrudes approximately 2–3 mm from the outer wall when pressure is applied (compression using manual force). The two discs from the transport lock are also used.

For the XP 12XX7 cable holder, first slide on the ⌀ 125 mm cover disc (remove the protective film if necessary!), then the ⌀ 68 mm pressure disc. Next, carefully screw on the M12 cone nut and tighten it only moderately (do not overtighten to keep the preload in the threaded rod low). As you do so, gently compress the 5 mm thick foam seal.

For the XP 12XX9 cable holder, first slide on the ⌀ 150 mm cover disc (remove the protective film if necessary!), then the ⌀ 68 mm pressure disc. Next, carefully screw on the M12 cone nut and tighten it only moderately (do not overtighten to keep the preload in the threaded rod low). As you do so, gently compress the 5 mm thick foam seal.

Next, screw on the long nut and the flat nut. Tighten the long nut against the tapered nut to act as a lock nut, using a second open-ended or ring spanner. The flat nut remains further out on the threaded shaft.

If desired or required, an additional sealant can be applied to the joint, e.g. using a transparent joint sealant such as "Ejoplast" from EJOT.

The head is then unscrewed without the grub screw and adjusted using the flat nut as a lock nut. To do this, a flat tool (screwdriver) is inserted through one of the slots in the head to hold it in place. The rest of the assembly is then carried out in accordance with the instructions for the relevant cable system or as described forheavy-duty kits.