Vineyard Training
The highly effective vineyard training techniques are also applicable for small rows of vines in the garden, for fences, and for freestanding espaliers. Especially noteworthy with this method: vines are trained to have short trunks, so unlike other training techniques, no elaborate trunk/stem framework is developed.
The History
In earlier times, every wine-growing region developed its own characteristic training techniques. Grapevines were either left to grow as shrubs without any growth supports, or trellised to wooden frames in the vineyard. Around 1900, the "Rhine-Hessian Training" became the norm in Germany~ a post and wire system using several horizontal parallel wires lying one above the other other ~ the "wire frame."
Spatial Requirements
The vines are arranged in rows with the plants usually spaced about 1.5m apart (for 2 canes per vine) or 0.8m (for 1 cane per vine). The climbing field, i.e., the space between the lowest and highest trellis wires, should be about 1m; for smaller arrangements in the private garden, min. 70cm.
Support and Trellising
The type and construction of the wire frames depends, among other things, on the selected training method, and for larger installations, requires professional advice. For small private garden plantings, we recommend wire rope system 0050.
Training
Selecting the right training method is best done with professional support. As an example, the bilateral cane training method (Guyot training), as carried out in the 2nd year, is illustrated here. Please refer to the information under 1st Year grapevines.
Pruning after the 5th Year
Each trunk develops a "head," which should be cane pruned ('dry pruned' / 'long pruned') every winter. Usually, additional summer pruning ('green pruning') follows.
Trimming back the fruiting cane to 8 - 12 spurs, later bending / tying; by turning/twisting the canes slightly, you can prevent them from breaking.
After thorough initial inspection, select 2 vigorous canes close to the "head" which are well separated from each other and easy to bend to the left and to the right. If at all possible, don't use the water shoot for this purpose. You then cut off from left to right: the left cane from the previous year back to just before the lowest shoot; then the right cane from the previous year is cut off completely, along with a short bit from 2 years ago. The "back-up spur" is then cut to just before the lower of the 2 canes. Last, the water shoot is cut back flush with the "head," because it is not required this time. Beginners are advised to retain this water shoot as a back-up, until the 2 canes have been tied without breaking.
The 2 lateral fruit canes are shortened to max. 13 spurs, then the shoots are wrapped / tied around the wire, twisting the canes well and winding them 2 - 3 times around the lowest wire (this is not absolutely necessary along walls). In the following years, always prune back to max. 12 - 13 spurs. Before pruning, always select 2 strong canes first, which are close to the "head" but well separated from each other and which are easily bent laterally, one to the left and the other to the right. After the 6th / 7th year, after having removed many water shoots from the "head," the latter has become more "fertile" through the numerous adhesions, and it is then possible to use water shoots directly as fruiting canes. In the first years, these water shoots are usually sterile, i.e., the shoots growing from them produce no grapes.
