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Trellis Fitting M12 'Massive', GH 12153

Trellis Fitting M12 'Massive', GH 12153

Product Sheet

Description / Price

Trellis Fitting made of stainless steel A4, smooth shaft d = 12 mm, made of particularly strong (bend-resistant) A4-80, with integrated anchoring system (patent protected). Head d = 20 mm / 10,2 mm with grub screw, lock nut, thrust washer for the drill hole closure, neoprene gasket, plastic spacer, expansion cone and metric plug (both from brass). Wall clearance 90mm. Simple installation. A similar head is also available separately. >>> Price



Wall fitting/anchor for stainless steel trellises with 8 (10) mm thick wires. For heavy loads. Distance to wall 9 cm. The distance from mount to mount should ideally not exceed 1.8 m. Compatible with many wall types; please check suitability via the link. Due to the expansion pressure, not suitable for border/edge areas; minimum distance from the edge of free-standing walls-- approx. 25 cm. Can also be mounted directly into solid wood d > 8 cm. Not for walls with insulation, wood panelling, or pre-fab construction. Please also read the general tips on how to correctly secure a trellis to the wall.



If necessary, please refer to the guidelines we've provided on drilling. Drill hole: 16 mm in diameter and 9cm deep; expand the front half of the drill hole, if possible, to about 16.5 mm diameter by gently abrading the hole wall during drilling. For optimal sealing, the surface should be reasonably flat or made so (sanded down). The already pre-assembled wall mount is led into the cleaned bore-hole, struck lightly on the head (cross head) (figure 07) if necessary, until the rubber seal comes in contact with the wall. If the mount can only be introduced with difficulty, the hole can be drilled again and widened by applying lateral pressure of the drill. If, on the other hand, the drill diameter becomes too large, rotate the rawl plug (dowel) a little closer/tighter before insertion. By slightly buckling the spacer body (the mount), a better 'grip' is then possible at the borehole wall, and the element does not rotate when tightening. Then use an open-ended wrench on the double nut and turn (screw in) (Figure 08). The wrench must engage the broad front nut. After a few turns - clockwise -as when inserting an ordinary screw - the inner metric plug is spread open, recognizable by the squeezing of the outside protruding plastic sleeve (spread indicator - Image 09). If the protruding plastic sleeve is completely crushed (Figure 10), the holder will be aligned according to the cross-slots.


Special Features of Vertically Perforated Bricks

Installing in perforated bricks with a dense structure is usually no problem. In porous, perforated bricks, such as Poroton (hollow bricks), Eder, etc., use is possible if the bricks are of category Hlz 12 or higher... i.e. vertically perforated bricks with compressive strength class 12. With a lower strength class, the inner webs should be as wide as possible. The structure of the chambers must ensure ensure that the rawl plug (anchor) head can grip at least the second web/footbridge; this must begin at least 6 cms inside behind the plaster outside edge (not stone outside edge!). The assembly ends in vertically perforated ('hollow') bricks (with picture 08/09; the last strong turn of the wrench (picture 10) is omitted. If there is still a clear 'crackling' in the brick during assembly, you can unscrew the cross mount again and exchange the entire product for adhesive plug (anchor) GH 12221. When in doubt, always use the element GH 12221, preferably with adhesion (gluing).


Special Features of Aerated Concrete

In aerated pore concrete ("air/gas/cellular concrete," e.g. "Ytong"), the wall mount can be used. When in doubt: the mount can be set at a closer distance, or as an alternative, choose GH 12221 with its deeper anchorage in order to prevent a breakage of the stone. In aerated concrete, the wall mount is hammered in and then tightened. It makes sense to drill a short, max 1.5 cm deep pilot-hole (d = 16 mm) to penetrate the outer plaster layer in order to avoid spalling when driving in. Then drill a pilot hole 6 - 8 mm in diameter-- even better a mandrel (awl)-punched hole-- in order to compact the surrounding material. It make take then 10 or more 'turns' until the anchor/plug has sufficiently compacted the surrounding stone material and and taken 'grip.' 



"Made in Germany" (Saxony), shaft from North Rhine-Westphalia, plug system from Baden-Wurttemberg; hexagon nuts from the Far East.

Picture 02: Components of the cross mount with rawl plug
Components of the wall mount
Picture 07: Gently hammering the mount into the wall
Gently hammering the mount into the wall
Picture 08: Screwing in (here an older version WM 12163)
Screwing in (here an older version WM 12163)
Picture 09: Expansion of the rawl plug
Expansion of the rawl plug
Picture 10: Mount in the facade after installation
Mounting of trellis fitting