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Special Case 02 for Installing Medium Kits "Classic"

The following installation instructions are only valid for some medium "Classic" kits. This page is about kits that contain eyelet screws but no cross mounts. This applies to the cable systems 6010, 7030, 7040 and 8020. All information on this page can be seen in connection with the 10 - 25 assembly diagrams for the respective cable system. Please use the link and go to the cable system you have purchased. The pictures shown here complete the flow charts there. Please clarify before ordering if you need tools!

Each grey ellipse (diagram) marks an eye bolt and shows its alignment according to the later forces. After drilling, all holes are cleaned with a hole brush and/or blower. The eye bolts are then grasped at the flange nut and screwed in using an open-end wrench. In the case of the WM 10080, this is done by means of a sturdy, transversely inserted screwdriver. At the points of the later rope loops, if necessary, the thimbles are inserted and pressed together with a pair of pliers (photo).

In the diagrams of the basic form, an installation with as little cutting as possible is shown, which usually works without any turnbuckle (cable tensioner). For this purpose, the rope is initially pulled through several (or even all) eye bolts, in the order shown in each case. A double kink in the wire rope (photo) with 15 cm overhang facilitates the formation of the following, first loop.

After threading, the first loop of rope is formed at a specific eye bolt. The rope is wound around the (pressed together!) thimble and clamped immediately behind it with a rope clamp. The rope overhang behind the clamp should be approx. 10 cm.

The next steps take place at that eye bolt through which the rope was threaded first. There, the end of the rope behind the eyelet is grasped by means of a mounting vice and tightened by hand (about 5 kg force). Here, a second mounting vice for fixing both rope strands just behind the eyelet (photo) is helpful, so that the rope clamp/grip (diagram) can easily be set. Then the vices are loosened and the rope is - with about 10 cm overhang - cut behind the clamp with a wire rope cutter.

If a turnbuckle (cable tensioner) is also used when using, for example, a ground anchor (diagram) or when installing long ropes in the roof area (photo), the installation of one of the two cable loops takes place at one end of the tensioner. The other end of the tensioner is then mounted directly in the eye bolt (SP 05190), or hooked in (SP 05160 or SP 08280 for ground anchors). A tensioner built in at ground level is easily accessible when re-tightening, while a tensioner built in near the roof protects against vandalism and manipulation.

If more rope sections are shown in the diagrams, they are laid according to the principle shown above. In places where ropes in the trellis intersect, floating cross clamps are placed (diagram). Finally, all wire rope ends of the rope get pressed-on end sleeves/ferrules (photo). If the ropes protrude about 10 cm each, as indicated, they can be easily re-tightened there in later years, if necessary.