The following installation instructions are only valid for some medium "Classic" Kits; the instructions apply to kits that contain not only wire rope mounts ("cross mounts"), but also eye bolts/ring screws ("mixed construction"). This applies to the wire rope systems 2030, 2040, 4010, 4050, 5010, 6020, 6030, 6040, 7050 and 7060. Such designs/configurations can be built up quickly; the eyelets serve, for example, to redirect a circumferential "rope frame" in the corners. All information on this page can be seen in connection with the 10 - 25 assembly diagrams in one of the cable systems above. Please use these links and go to the wire rope system you have purchased. The pictures shown here complete the flow charts there. Before ordering, please also check to see if you need tools!
The symbols in the diagram represent the wall mounts and thus the drilling points. Small grey circles (diagram) show cross mounts; grey ellipses indicate eye bolts and show their alignment according to the later forces. After drilling, all holes are cleaned with a hole brush and/or blower. The thimbles contained in the kit are inserted into the eye bolts where later rope loops with rope clamps are formed and pressed together with pliers (photo).
The tiny red bars show how to align the grooves of the cross mounts. Sometimes the grooves must be diagonal, i.e. at a 45 degree angle. Now install all mounts; please note the product sheet for the respective wall mounts (standard in kits is WH 10151 or WH 10150). Usually, the mounts are slightly greased on the shaft, grasped with an open-end wrench on the flange nut, and then screwed in. In exceptional cases, as with WM 10081, a screwdriver blade is inserted through the grooves and the mount is screwed in. Grub screws on cable/rope mounts are removed for assembly.
The diagrams of the basic form show an installation with as little wire rope cutting as possible and which does not require a turnbuckle (wire rope tensioner). In some basic forms, the rope mount is not attached with loops and rope clamps, but attached directly in the cross mounts. For this purpose, the rope is threaded through several eye bolts, as shown, and laid loosely in the rope/cable mount with approx. 10 cm protrusion/overhang. The grub screw is inserted, moderately tightened, and in the second step, tightened a bit more by gripping the mount at the flange nut, or in exceptional cases at the flat nut directly behind the head (photo) with an open-end wrench.
In many basic forms, the outer "rope mount/frame" is attached with two loops. For this, the wire rope is initially pulled through several or even all ring screws, in the order shown in each case. The wire rope is not yet laid into the cross mounts. A double kink in the wire rope (photo) with 15 cm overhang facilitates the formation of the following (first) loop.
After threading, the first loop of rope is formed at a specific eye bolt (diagram). The rope is wound around the pressed-together thimble and clamped immediately behind it with a wire rope clamp/grip. The rope overhang behind the clamp should be approximately 10 cm. Then, the rope (slack/loose) is guided through the grooves of the cable mount (diagram) without the grub screws being inserted or tightened.
The next steps take place at the eye bolt through which the rope was threaded through first. There the other end of the rope behind the mount is now gripped by means of a mounting vice and tightened by hand (about 5 - 10 kg). Here, a second mounting vice for fixing both rope strands just behind the eye bolt (photo) is helpful, so that the wire rope clamp (diagram) can be set easily. Then the vices are loosened and the rope is - with about 10 cm overhang - cut behind the clamp with a wire rope cutter.
If a wire rope is tightened in a rope/cable clamp (diagram), the second mounting vice is clamped directly behind the rope/cable clamp (photo) onto the rope to temporarily fix the tightened state. This can also be done with a clamping ring or a cross clamp, which is often included anyway in the rope system. After tightening the grub screw in the rope/cable clamp, the fastener/fix is removed.
If the wire rope -- here the frame rope -- runs through one or more mounts/holders, it is first laid into the holders without screwing in or tightening the grub screws, or if so- only for provisional fixation of the rope. The final tightening of these grub screws takes place at the end or when, in the respective holder, a second rope is fastened a little later (photo); the holder on the corresponding diagram is then marked in bold red.
If more rope sections are shown in the diagrams, they are laid according to the principle shown above. In places where wire ropes intersect (diagram), floating cross clamps are set when the diagrams show this. Finally, all protruding ends of the rope receive pressed-on wire end sleeves/ferrules (photo). If the wire ropes protrude approximately 10 cm, they can be easily grasped for re-tensioning in the future, if necessary.