Non load-bearing (free-standing) walls, wall panels, partitions, retaining walls, etc.. can also be transformed into facade gardens, but the approach will be slightly different than the usual facade greening. This begins with the question of whether or not you want to cover the entire wall up to the wall coping, and whether the greenery shall be overhanging, etc.. In this section, we give examples of wall greening, from historical garden walls to modern retaining walls and sound barriers. You can find supplementary information under supporting/retaining walls, dry masonry, and gabions.
'Self climbers' -- like wild vine and ivy (Boston and English ivy)-- for which climbing aids are unnecessary, are often used on such walls. When using these plants, however, it is particularly important that the wall is intact. The cope of the wall must be able to repel and drain all precipitation so that no water can penetrate from above, and all joints should be watertight so that the shoots of the plants cannot climb their way in (and cause potential damage to the structure). Climbing hydrangea and climbing spindle (winter creeper) are also suitable and less aggressive.
This is the classic way of wall greening! Espaliers are trees that are given a strict shape to optimise space. In cooler areas of Central Europe, many plants love the stored warmth of a protective wall. They were traditionally planted at the foot of a stone wall, as the heat stored by the stones allows the fruit to ripen better. In the Baroque period, wall gardens with "talut walls" (free-standing roofed walls) were specially created to produce trellis fruits. Wooden trellises and horizontally spanned wire arrangements were also used; the latter inspired our cable system 8010.
Climbing support is required for almost all plants except for ivy and 'wild vines' like boston ivy or virginia creeper. Cable systems from FassadenGrün can also be used on non load-bearing walls; especially fitting are the elongated forms 8010 and 8020. When necessary, several cable systems (such as 4010, 4020, or those from the 6000 category) can be grouped next to each other.
When mounting into natural stone masonry or brick, keep a 20cm distance from all edges to prevent cracking. For more information, refer to the manual on 'drilling work for climbing aids'. Even in the range of 25 – 40cm spacing on such walls, mounting should be done 'expansion-pressure free'-- so, no rawl plugs/dowels. Use composite mortar instead.
Modern walls - usually made of concrete or precast concrete elements - lend themselves well to greening. Installing cable systems is easier than with older walls. There is a lower risk of cracking the wall at the cope and edges, and less risk of climbing plant tendrils crawling into the masonry.
Sound barriers at the edge of motorways are prime candidates for greening. Climbing plants make the unsightly presence of these walls more bearable in the urban landscape. When all factors-- a rapid wall growth coverage, evergreen vegetation growth, minimal maintenance, low water requirement, inexpensive or no climbing aid-- cannot be reconciled, priorities must be set. The planting then complies with these factors. There are even scientific studies and long-term experiments on the greening of sound barriers. Please note the information under supporting walls, as well as dry stone walls and gabion.