Here you'll find information on the installation of "medium kits" (follow link for general information on these kits) and of of self-assembled trellis systems. Here, we'll address the medium construction styles "Eco" and "Premium", and also "Classic," though "Classic" does have some exceptions, for which you can find details in the first diagram. All information on this page can be seen in connection with the 10 - 25 installation diagrams for the respective rope/cable system. Please use the link and go to the rope/cable system you have purchased. The pictures shown here complete the flow charts there. And please also clarify before ordering if you need tools!
Do you have a medium wire rope system "Classic"? Then there may be an exception: If your "Classic" system contains wire rope holders and eye bolts (photo), please jump to the special case 1. If your kit consists of eybolts only, such as the wire rope kit 6010 "classic", then go to special case 2. In all other cases, including "Eco" and "Premium," continue reading on this page.
The symbols in the diagram signify the rope mounts; the red bars show the alignment of the grooves of the head. After drilling, all holes are cleaned with a hole brush and/or blower and then the rope mounts are fastened (photo), preferably without grub screws. For this, please refer to the product sheet of the mount/ holder (standard with Eco kits WH 08111, with "Classic" kits mostly WH 10151, and with "Premium" WM 08133).
With some systems it is necessary to cut one or more pieces of wire rope of approx. 30 cm length from the wire rope reel and loosely insert them into the grooves of the rope mounts/holders (photo) without inserting or tightening the grub screws. On both sides, the wire rope has a minimum of 10 cm overhang. Further details can be found in the respective diagram. Loose/slack ropes are indicated by the wavy shape (diagram).
The diagrams of the basic form depicts an installation requiring as little wire rope cutting as possible and which does not require a turnbuckle (wire rope tensioner). For this purpose, the wire rope is initially laid slack in the first holder, with about 10 cm overhang. The grub screw is inserted and moderately tightened. In the second step, grip the mount at the flange nut, or in exceptional cases at the flat nut, directly behind the head (photo) with an open-end wrench and tighten a bit more.
Then the rope is loosely guided through the grooves of all rope mounts, gripped behind the last, opposite holder with a mounting vice, and tightened by hand force (about 5 -10 kg). Often a second vice for temporary fixation directly behind the mount (photo below) can be helpful so that the rest of the grub screws can be inserted and tightened. Then -- again with about 10 cm overhang -- the rope is cut behind the mount with a wire rope cutter.
In some cases, it is necessary to temporarily fix/fasten a tightened wire rope without screwing in the grub screw, because an additional wire rope will be inserted there. This fixation of the pre-tightened rope is done with a second mounting vice directly behind the cable mount (photo), or with a clamping ring or a cross clamp, which is often part of the cable system. After tightening the grub screw, the fastener is removed.
If a wire rope runs through more than two mounts, it is initially only fixed to the outer mounts and inserted only into the middle mount. The grub screws there are not screwed in, and if so, only for temporary fixation of the rope so it does not slip out. The final tightening of these grub screws is done at the end or when, in the respective mount, a second rope is fastened a little later (photo), and the mount on the corresponding diagram is then marked in bold red.
In places where wire ropes intersect, floating cross clamps are set where indicated in the diagrams. Finally, projecting rope ends behind the respective cable mount are bent so that they constitute an extension of the wire rope axis. Thereafter, end sleeves (ferrules) are pressed onto the wire rope ends. If the wire ropes protrude approx. 10 cm, they can, in later years, be easily re-tightened as necessary.