Our wire rope trellis systems are available in five versions, from the simplest to the strongest. The massive version is our sturdiest and heaviest. Here you will find instructions for the installation of these massive systems, our preassembled Massive Kits, and any self-assembled trellis sets using 12 mm cross mounts and 4 mm cable. All information on this page is meant to be used in connection with the 10 to 25 installation diagrams for the respective cable system. Please go to the cable system you have ordered. The pictures shown here complement the sequence diagrams there, and also apply to the medium construction style (Medium Kits) when only cross mounts (and no eyebolts) are included. Before ordering, please check to see if you have all the tools required!
The symbols in the diagram represent the cross mounts. The red bars indicate the alignment of the grooves of the mount cross-head. After drilling, clean all holes with drill hole brushes and/or with a small air pump, and then install the cross mounts without the grub screws (photo); to do so, please refer to the product sheet of the cross mount WM 12153.
With some systems, it is necessary at the beginning to cut one or more pieces of wire rope with an excess length of 30 cm and loosely insert them into the grooves of the cable mounts (photo) without inserting or tightening the grub screws. On both sides, the wire rope should have a minimum of 10 cm overhang (behind the mount). Refer to the respective diagrams for further details. Slack ropes are represented by the wavy shape (in the diagram).
The basic-form depicted here in the diagrams show an installation requiring as little cutting as possible and one which does not require a turnbuckle (rope tensioner). The first rope is laid slack in the first mount with about 10 cm overhang. The grub screw is inserted, moderately tightened, and in the second step again tightened whilst holding the mount with an open-end wrench (photo).
Then the wire rope is guided to the opposite mount and placed in the groove, gripped behind the mount with a mounting vice and pulled taut by hand (about 10 - 20 kg force). Often a second mounting vice for temporary fixing directly behind the holder (photo below) is helpful so that inserting and tightening the grub screw is easier. Then -- again with about 10 cm of overhang -- the rope is cut behind the holder with a rope/cable cutter.
In some cases, it is necessary to temporarily fix/fasten a tensioned wire rope without screwing the grub screw into the cross mount, because later another wire rope will be inserted there. This fixing of the pre-tensioned state is done with a second mounting vice directly behind the cable mount (photo), or with a clamping ring or a cross clamp, which is often included in the kit. After tightening the grub screw, the fix/fastener is removed.
If a rope runs through more than two mounts, it is initially fixed only to the outer mounts. In the middle mount, it is only inserted; the grub screws there are either not screwed in or are only screwed in for temporary fixation of the rope so it does not slip out. The final tightening of these grub screws is done at the end or if/when: in the respective mount, a second rope is inserted a little later, (photo) and the mount is marked bold red on the corresponding diagram.
At places where wire ropes intersect, place a free-floating cross clamp (when diagrams indicate). Bend the protruding cable ends (behind the mounts) in such a way that they represent an extension of the cable axis (i.e. that the cable appears to form a straight line). Finally, place a protective end sleeve on each cable end and press with pliers to secure. Let the cables protrude about 10 cm each so they can be easily grasped for ren-tensioning should they slacken in later years.