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Installation of Heavy Kits

Our wire rope trellises are available in five versions, from the simplest to the strongest. The heavy version is our second to last in the series. Here we'll cover the assembly of Heavy Kits, any of our systems in the heavy construction style, or for any self-assembled trellis using M12 mounts and 4 mm cable. All information on this page is to be used in connection with the 10 - 25 assembly diagrams that you can find on the page of your respective cable system. Please use the link and go to the cable system you have ordered. The images shown here supplement the diagrams there; they are also valid for the medium design construction (Medium Kits) when cross mounts but no eyebolts are included. Before ordering, please check to see if you need tools!

The symbols in the diagram represent the cross mounts; the red crosses show the alignment of the grooves of the screw head. After drilling, clean all holes with a brush and/or blower. Then install all wall mounts without the grub screws (photo). Consult the product data sheets of each trellis fitting/mount (for our heavy systems, the standard anchor is WM 12191, used together with SD 16130 sieve and VM 00300 composit mortar).

With some systems it is necessary to cut one or more pieces of wire rope with approx. 30 cm excess length from the wire rope reel and loosely insert them into the grooves of the mounts (photo) without inserting or tightening the grub screws. On both sides, the wire rope should have a minimum of 10 cm overhang. Further details can be found in the respective diagrams. Slack ropes are always recognizable (in diagram) as such due to the wavy shape.

In the diagrams of the basic form, an assembly/installation requiring as little cutting as possible is shown, and usually does not require a turnbuckle (cable tensioner). For this purpose, the rope is initially laid slack in the first mount with about 10 cm overhang. The grub screw is inserted, moderately tightened, and in the second step, tightened again by holding the mount with an open-end wrench (photo).

Then the wire rope is guided to the opposite holder/mount and placed in the groove, gripped behind the holder with a mounting vice and pulled taut by hand (about 10 - 20 kg force). Often a second mounting vice for temporary fixing directly behind the holder (photo one line below) is helpful so that inserting and tightening the grub screw is easier. Then -- again with about 10 cm of overhang -- the rope is cut behind the holder with a wire rope cutter.

In some cases, it is necessary to temporarily fasten/fix a tensioned wire rope, without screwing the grub screw into the cross mount, because later another wire rope will be inserted there. This fixation of the pre-tensioned condition is done with a second mounting vice directly behind the cable holder (photo), or with a clamping ring or a cross clamp, which is often part of the kit. After tightening the grub screw, the fastener/fix is removed.

If a rope runs through more than two mounts/holders, it is initially only fixed to the outer mounts. In the middle mount, it is only inserted; the grub screws there are either not yet screwed in or only screwed in for temporary fixation of the rope, so it does not slip out. The final tightening of these grub screws is done at the end or then: when/if in the respective mount, a second rope is inserted a little later (photo) and if the mount is marked bold red on the corresponding diagram.

In places where wire ropes intersect, free-floating cross clamps are placed when the diagrams show it. Finally, projecting rope ends behind the respective cable mount are bent so that they represent an extension of the cable axis. Thereafter, the rope ends still get pressed end sleeves (ferrules). If the ropes protrude about 10 cm each, as indicated, they can be easily grasped for re-tensioning there in later years, if necessary.