Installation in ETICS before the insulation panels are installed

The insulation panels must be at least 12 cm thick without the coating. The material of the insulation must be rigid panels (polystyrene, EPS hard foam, mineral wool). There must be a solid supporting facade underneath: concrete, full masonry, hollow masonry, natural stone or cellular concrete.

You will need a Ø 95 mm (XP 12XX3) or Ø 127 mm (XP 12XX5) holesaw / cylinder saw, a Ø 16 mm hammer drill or, for insulation panels thicker 16 cm, an extra long hammer drill or a long percussion drill, and about 1/2 cartridge of compound mortar per cable mount together with an injection gun. For insulation panels > 16 cm, a mixing-tube extension is required. A motorized injection gun can facilitate the insallation (not available at FassadenGrün).

A laser is useful for marking the drilling points. Instead of a laser, a mason's wire (plumb bob cord) and a laser spirit level can be used to quickly mark the corner points. You will also need a folding rule / tape measure and two 19 mm open-end wrenches, a small piece of squared lumber or similar, a putty knife and painter's crepe (tape). An angle and a mini spirit level can help align the drill. A  Ø 16 mm drill hole brush and a blower (or a compressor / compressed air) are needed to clean your drill holes; a vacuum cleaner to remove the drilling dust is also recommended. Additional tools  -- a rope cutter/cable shears and 1 - 2 mounting vices -- will be very useful for attching the steel cables.

Beginners and do-it-yourselfers: please consult our info sheet on drilling operations before proceeding! Mark the drilling point and place the cylinder saw at the marked location. Then adjust the position of the drill bit with a spirit level and/or an angle; proceed with drilling. Check the alignment of the drill in all directions while drilling!

Mill the cylinder into the insulation panel, vacuuming out any shavings and debris. The surface will be leveled / smoothed  later.

Adjust the position of the Ø 16 mm drill with a spirit level and/or a stop bracket (back square). Then drill. If using chemical mortar sieve sleeves, drill 14 cm deep; otherwise, drill to the anchoring depth (the depth at which the fitting witll be driven into the facade, so approx. 9 - 12 cm) + 1 cm.

Remains of the adhesive (from insulation panels) are milled away with the drill.

The hollow formwork and the rear borehole must be brushed out, blown out and vacuumed, preferably several times. If there is hollow brickwork at the rear, the screen sleeve should be inserted first. This step is not required for solid brickwork. The support structure, including the threaded rod (‘body’), can now be inserted on a trial basis.

Please now follow the instructions for the composite mortar (initial zero-strand, temperatures, open times, curing times). Use a mixing tube extension if necessary. The cartridge should be at least half full to avoid interruptions. Important: Start at the back of the drill hole and slowly pull the mixing tube out. Then proceed immediately to step 07.

Check whether the composite mortar cartridge still contains enough mortar (approx. 1/4 of the cartridge) to continue working without interruption. Then remove the two transport locks from the body and, if possible, please return them (along with the loaned tools) to FassadenGrün. Next, apply the composite mortar very thickly in a spiral ‘caterpillar’ shape to the rear of the body. In exceptional cases – where the air gap between the insulation and the load-bearing wall is larger than expected – the front side is bonded.

Press the "body" together with the threaded rod against the wall to bond it in place, ideally whilst "turning it slightly" so that the mortar can spread evenly and adapt to the substrate until the body is in full contact with the surface (important!). If there is a large gap around the edge, fix the body in place if necessary and prevent it from "sagging", e.g. by inserting matches into the gap. Observe the curing time (see composite mortar cartridge). If the body is approximately flush with the insulation board on the outside, steps 09 and 10 are not required!

This step may not be necessary – see step 08! A plastic spacer disc (h=5 mm) is fitted so that there is still a gap of approx. 3–5 mm to the outer edge of the insulation layer. If necessary, additional spacers (h=1.5 mm) are placed between the foam glass and the 5 mm spacer disc (to secure it during transport).

This step may not be necessary – see step 08! Fit the hex flat nut and the 50 mm stainless steel washer and tighten them securely; this will brace and stabilise the entire support block. See the next diagram for the projection of the flat nut.

Depending on the type of plaster planned (thin-coat or thick-coat), the flat nut – if fitted – must protrude no more than 2 mm or 6 mm from the insulation layer. It must be concealed beneath the future plaster. If necessary, the number of shims may need to be adjusted again.

To keep the threaded rod clean, it is covered with masking tape, packing tape or similar.

The opening is now filled so that it is flush with the outer edge of the insulation. An adhesive and filler compound suitable for the specific ETICS system is used for this. The reinforcement layer can then be applied and finished.

The wall, now fully insulated, is to be plastered. The plaster is carefully applied around the protruding threaded ends. The wall paint will be applied later. Once the work is complete, the masking tape on the threaded shafts will be removed.

Now slide the 85 mm cover disc into place and, if necessary, remove the protective film. Then carefully screw on the M12 cone nut and tighten it only moderately (do not overtighten, to keep the preload in the threaded rod low). As you do so, gently compress the 5 mm thick foam gasket.

Next, screw on the long nut and flat nut (XP 12XX5) or two flat nuts (XP 12XX3). Tighten one nut against the tapered nut to act as a lock nut, using a second open-ended or ring spanner. The last flat nut remains on the outer part of the threaded shaft.

If desired or required, an additional sealant can be applied to the joint, e.g. using a transparent joint sealant such as "Ejoplast" from EJOT.

The head is then unscrewed without the grub screw and adjusted using the flat nut as a lock nut. To do this, a flat tool (screwdriver) is inserted through one of the slots in the head to hold it in place. The rest of the assembly is then carried out in accordance with the instructions for the relevant cable system or as described forheavy-duty kits.