This 'exposed masonry' subsection examines the application of climbing aids on bonded, flat stones like tiles, clinker-closers etc. Especially modern 'clinker' walls that are in fact not clinker at all but made up of a completely different building material with clinker tiles glued on the face for purely aesthetic purposes. On this page you can see examples of facades along with tips for mounting.
Mostly it is glazed or unglazed tiles that are used for clinker-closers, or natural stone plates. All these external brick facades are very slim and attached, by an adhesive or mortar, to the thicker substrate that is usually a less valuable masonry or even just thermal insulation. This technique ensures a high quality aesthetic but at a more reasonable cost.
If you want to install one of your trellises into a tiled or closer faced wall, you must identify the material of the substrate layer of wall beneath. If you need help in identifying you wall, you can check through our list of plaster masonry here. Once you've confirmed the wall is sound, all except for our “Massive” kits are compatible. In contrast, if an insulation layer is under the surface, installing trellis systems is sometimes not possible.
It is important that the drilling is done carefully (no impact hammer drilling) and that any screws or anchors are installed only in the mortarjoints. The hole you drill in the facade panels should slightly exceed the diameter of the rawlplug to prevent the shaft of the screw or anchor from being too suppressed directly onto the sensitive hole in the tiles or clinker-closers, even when under strain from a heavy plant load. The wire ropes should not be fully taut, in this way cracks to the facade are prevented. Lastly, if you are using any of our trellis fittings with supporting disks, the pressure with which you secure them to the wall should also be slightly below the highest possible and this will also reduce the risk of cracks.
For drilling, we recommend universal drill UB 77777.