Description / Price
Brass wall anchor (rawl plug/dowel): a special anchor made of brass with a slightly conical internal thread of different metric thread sizes, outer surface: grooved. Four sizes:
DM 06025, l = 25 mm, for M6, Drill-d = 8 mm - Price
DM 08030, l = 30 mm, for M8, Drill-d = 10 mm - Price
DM 10030, l = 30 mm, for M10, Drill-d = 12 mm - Price
DM 12040, l = 41 mm, for M12, Drill-d = 16 mm - Price
For removable fastening of wall mounts in our WM series (metric threaded shaft). For use with very solid surfaces, such as concrete, lightweight concrete, clinker brick, and limestone. Used also in normal brickwork to some extent. Please refer as needed to our general information on anchor technology.
For exact dowel holes: hammer drill bit HB 44444. Alternatively, use a concrete drill bit, an inexpensive masonry bit or normal a universal drill bit; selection also depends on wall type.
Please refer to our section on drilling. In concrete, natural stone, and bare walls (unplastered masonry), brass anchors are usually set flush with the outer surface; in other surfaces, a counter-sinking of 1-2 cm is recommended. Do not put the anchors into joints, but only directly into the stone. In the case of cross mounts, unscrew the grub screw.
Drill hole diameter equal to or slightly greater than the outer diameter of the plug/anchor. Minimum depth of the drilled hole is calculated from the counter-sinking depth plus the anchor length plus a rear clearance of 0.5 to 1 cm. Blow / brush out the drill hole to achieve optimal adhesion. Oil the threaded shaft at the back, screw on the metal anchor/plug such that the spreading effect just begins but that the shaft including brass plug can still be inserted effortlessly into the drilled hole. Is the drill hole too narrow? It can be widened by drilling with lateral pressure against the borehole walls.
Then slide the wall bracket with screwed metal plug/anchor into the drilled hole, possibly also with very light hammer blows 'to adjust.' Insertion depth of WM 10080 and WM 10081 should be such that the plug is flush with the wall; for WM 08080 and other eyelets: such that that the wall mount protrudes by about 1 - 2 cm. A hole that is too narrow or too wide can be corrected by changing the pre-expansion of the brass plug on the threaded shaft by turning the plug a little further onto the shaft or by screwing it back a little, in the other case.
Once the components are inserted, the wall bracket is rotated further into the plug/anchor; in the case of cross mounts, use a screwdriver inserted transversely through the grooves. If the plug 'spins', i.e. does not "grip," hold the threaded shaft at a slight angle and press the plug laterally against the wall of the drilled hole and turn until the plug engages/grips. Resistance increases rapidly as the plug is further screwed in-- crunching noises indicate a successful screwing in. It should be sufficiently anchored after about 5-10 turns. The further fastening process depends on the kind of the wall bracket (where necessary, tighten support plate/clamp, etc.).
The brass plug develops strong expansion forces in the rear grooved section and is therefore not suitable (or only in a very limited way) for porous and brittle surfaces such as sandstone, aerated concrete ("gas" concrete, "Ytong"), etc.. If in doubt, it is helpful to not set the anchor flush with the surface but deeper into the supporting wall layer in order to avoid spalling, cracks, etc.. Otherwise, an anchoring with composite mortar is preferable.
Once set, brass plugs that have already expanded should not be used again, as the fracture of the brass can cause the load-bearing plug flanks to break out, unnoticed, during installation.
Made in Germany (Baden-Württemberg)