Ancient masonry wall plaster

This page belongs to the 'plaster masonry' section and deals with historic masonry with plaster, circa 1870. Here all kinds of problems are hiding. For example, coarse gravel in the plaster layer or in the masonry, then natural stone, mixed masonry, wide joints, half-timbered and clay- all of this can make it difficult for fixtures. Here are universal drill/ drivers recommended. Often the heavy use of composite mortar may be a solution, detailed information can be found on this page.

Problems with the Masonry

Under the wall plaster, instead of brick walled up evenly there are often natural stones that are crumbly, fragile and not strong enough to support an anchoring. Furthermore, it is also expected to find cavities in border areas of the bricks. Even during drilling can bricks crumble inside, material detachments can happen, so that the viability of the drilled hole is lost. Under the plaster there is sometimes mixed masonry from different stones, bricks, hard bricks, concrete blocks, etc., which can be problematic.  These problems are usually combined with very different sized joints. The grout itself is often very crumbly and also hardly viable. Also surprises such as cavities, old wooden dowels, plaster and metal parts (steel beams over windows) can be found and attaching a wall trellis is then difficult. In addition, very thick plaster can be expected with, at least partially, recesses or cavities that were compensated by with heavy plaster putty.

Individual solutions may be asked for and needed. A remedy is often composite mortar, filling, leveling, gluing holders or the associated anchor. Prepare for possible drilling problems.  A hammer drill can help instead of the normal drill, sometimes steel drills and bits are then required in steel beams.

Problems with the Plaster

First problems may have already occurred in the original plaster layer. Therefore test crumbly old plaster initially, for sustainability, by tapping gently on it. Hollow sounding sites must be refurbished prior to attachment of holders. Nowadays, the grain size of the sand contained in the plaster is limited by rigorous screening, and the plasters are applied in a uniform thickness. Things were different before, so occasionally in very old plaster, gravel is found at a 2 cm size. It is helpful to cover the drill holes with a piece of wide fabric tape or painter’s masking tape to draw the coordinate cross and then drill. After drilling, carefully remove the tape.This helps to prevent a breaking of plaster pieces. If there is flaking, the plaster is held by the masking tape and then add mortar, putty, to repair again.

Truss and Timber Frames

When drilling in buildings before 1870 can wood sometimes be found. That not be an old, on plastered wooden dowels or part of a truss. In the latter case, the bricks are being used as 'infill', and a fixture in these stones is possibly significantly less resilient. Here anchors are then best secured equal in specialist workshop in the filled 'compartments'. By 4 oblique mineral exploration (left-right-up-down) ensures that the center and not a sensitive edge area of the timber has been detected during drilling. For these underground look then under 'solid wood'.

Clay Walls

Another problem are walls made of solid compressed clay or clay bricks form- if necessary even with thick plaster. Here, in solid clay are particularly deep adhesion (approx. 16 - 24 cm) with extra-long stem and taper to the back of the enlarged drill hole ("behind cut" - see below) are recommended. Please ask for these special items specifically. In the modern clay brick forms the instructions of the manufacturer must be observed. Clay infill with wood reinforcement ,or other, count as a barely more resilient underground. Here Trellis frames are best secured in the struts of the truss instead of the filled 'compartments'.

Suitable wall bracket, anchors and drill

In intact, historic walls, all constructions of FassadenGrün can be used. A Universal drill should be used. It becomes difficult when problems are foreseeable or encountered during drilling. Easy and Massive kits are no longer usable, or if they are, dependant only with the current limitations of your findings.

By way of derogation from a planned adherance with plastic plugs are then cross-holder directly glued, or the respective dowel, glued in place. Such bonding of holders or dowels should be provided with a conical, rearward enlarged drill hole ("rear cut"), by the rotating drill against the drill hole wall is pressed and some failures detent. A particularly powerful rear section - with devices or special drills - with widening of 20 - 25 degrees can hold values increase tenfold! Please use, in addition, the notes under drilling work.

New wooden trellis of black locust on an ancient rectory with problematic walls
Old vicarage with grapevine
Ruin with rubble masonry under the plaster
Rubble masonry
Vines on an old plastered mud wall
Grapevine on mud wall
Intact historic masonry with plaster, rope growth aid, Medium construction, grapevine
Greened up plastered wall, Bretagne
Iron, wood and clay: So it may look under a plastered half-timbered facade ...
Infill on timber-framed wall
It is highly adviced to use all purpose drill bits like our UB 77777