This page falls under the 'plaster masonry' umbrella and explains plastered, historic masonry circa 1870. Unfortunately this surface contains all manner of problems, such as coarse gravel in the overlaying plaster and/or in the masonry, unstable natural stone, mixed masonry, wide joints, half-timbered and clay, all of which make securely installing our wire rope systems very difficult. We recommend using the universal drill/drivers. Often, heavy use of composite mortar may be a solution, detailed information can be found on this page.
The first problems can arise immediately, within the overlaying plaster. Test the bearing strength by gently tapping the surface. It will be necessary to redo the plaster in hollow sounding places before drilling. The masonry beneath will most likely be unevenly stacked with stones that are crumbly and fragile due to age, you can also expect to find full blown cavities or one can be created during drilling. Sometimes you will find mixed masonry from different stones, porous bricks, clinkers, concrete blocks, etc. which can also be problematic and usually have very different sized joints. Also surprises such as cavities, old wooden dowels, plaster and metal inserts i.e. steel beams over windows, can be found. In addition, very thick plaster can be expected with, at least partially, recesses or cavities that were compensated by heavy plaster putty.
A common remedy to these problems is composite mortar, which can be used for filling, levelling, gluing bolts or anchors. Prepare for possible drilling problems. A hammer drill can help instead of the normal drill and if you hit any metal steel drill or drill bit may be required.
First problems may have already occurred in the original plaster layer. Therefore test crumbly old plaster initially, for sustainability, by tapping gently on it. Hollow sounding sites must be refurbished prior to attachment of holders. Nowadays, the grain size of the sand contained in the plaster is limited by rigorous screening, and the plasters are applied in a uniform thickness. Things were different before, so occasionally in very old plaster, gravel is found at a 2 cm size. It is helpful to cover the drill holes with a piece of wide fabric tape or painter’s masking tape to draw the coordinate cross and then drill. After drilling, carefully remove the tape.This helps to prevent a breaking of plaster pieces. If there is flaking, the plaster is held by the masking tape and then add mortar, putty, to repair again.
When drilling in buildings before 1870 can wood sometimes be found. That not be an old, on plastered wooden dowels or part of a truss. In the latter case, the bricks are being used as 'infill', and a fixture in these stones is possibly significantly less resilient. Here anchors are then best secured equal in specialist workshop in the filled 'compartments'. By 4 oblique mineral exploration (left-right-up-down) ensures that the center and not a sensitive edge area of the timber has been detected during drilling. For these underground look then under 'solid wood'.
Another problem are walls made of solid compressed clay or clay bricks form- if necessary even with thick plaster. Here, in solid clay are particularly deep adhesion (approx. 16 - 24 cm) with extra-long stem and taper to the back of the enlarged drill hole ("behind cut" - see below) are recommended. Please ask for these special items specifically. In the modern clay brick forms the instructions of the manufacturer must be observed. Clay infill with wood reinforcement ,or other, count as a barely more resilient underground. Here Trellis frames are best secured in the struts of the truss instead of the filled 'compartments'.
In intact, historic walls, all constructions of FassadenGrün can be used. A Universal drill should be used. It becomes difficult when problems are foreseeable or encountered during drilling. Easy and Massive kits are no longer usable, or if they are, dependant only with the current limitations of your findings.
By way of derogation from a planned adherance with plastic plugs are then cross-holder directly glued, or the respective dowel, glued in place. Such bonding of holders or dowels should be provided with a conical, rearward enlarged drill hole ("rear cut"), by the rotating drill against the drill hole wall is pressed and some failures detent. A particularly powerful rear section - with devices or special drills - with widening of 20 - 25 degrees can hold values increase tenfold! Please use, in addition, the notes under drilling work.