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Aerated Concrete as a Base for Trellis Frames

This page belongs to  'plaster masonry'. You will find information about Trellis frames made of rope or wood on plaster, foamed solid bricks. Primarily, it is aerated, for example, the brand 'Ytong', is popularly seen  under ' gas concrete' . With these building materials, trellis scaffoldings from FassadenGrün are applicable with certain restrictions, insulation is also to be calculated on partially.

Problem Areas in Aerated Concrete

Aerated concrete has a good insulating effect, but also a significantly lower compressive strength than 'normal' bricks. Sometimes 'special plasters' also play a role here. Above windows there are expected to be awnings, which should not be drilled. About windows (lintels) and in the area of ​​ceilings, ring beams and wall integrated supports it often happens that these displaced disengaging as concrete components and a layer insulation (4 - 10 cm) installed flush with the wall provided before uniformly covering with plaster. Thus thermal bridges at the concrete parts are avoided. Here problems in mounting trellis frames made from rope or wood may occur - see below.. These sites are no longer visible after plastering, but recognizable by tapping lightly and listening. Therefore, all areas with a tap sample are examined for concealed insulation in aerated prior to marking. If you can not avoid the drilling of such an area,  cross mount WM 12XX2 are to be used. When drilling in concrete lintels and similar things,  reinforcement contact may occur.

Suitable Wall Brackets and Anchors

Problems largely can be solved with the Light and the Medium construction kits. 'Classic' and 'Premium' can be used, special drilling / bits provided below. Particularly suitable is the Heavy construction (gluing).

Easy kits as well as the average construction 'Eco' can be used, but the respective plastic anchors should be glued beforehand with bonding mortar. The bore hole should be drilled larger and conically at the back. Tilt the drill to the side of the bore hole and rotate. There are devices and drills that widen the cone in the hole to a much larger extent (20 – 25 degrees), increasing the holding value tenfold!

The Massive construction is also applicable, the holes should be 'hit' or “hammered” not drilled (see below). For details see the holder WM 12153

Drilling in porous concrete

Walls of 'Concrete' or aerated concrete can usually be drilled easily, if possibly insulated problem areas are kept free or treated separately. All drill bits in our range are suitable. Always first pre-drill, without a hammer drill, and with a smaller drill. Keep a close eye on what depth you encounter at the bearing stone layer, identifiable by the consistency of and color of the drilling dust. Recognize special plasters (more than 2 cm thick), this may need to be treated specially.

Best of all is to end drilling after piercing the plaster layer and then to hit the hole deeper only with professional special market tools. This leads to a compression of the material and significantly better retention values ​​after the surface mounting. The drilling on the final hole diameter is analogous: pierce coat of plaster, but then hit the hole in the stone with a pestle. If anchors can't find support, the hole should then be drilled conically  backwards and the anchor glued as described above. Please use the general remarks under drilling.

Such garage buildings are often made of aerated concrete. Over the gable window is a separate, insulated lintel expected.
Trellis on ytong
Greening on modern aerated concrete garage, Cable Systems 1020, Heavy construction, evergreen honeysuckle
Greenery on aerated concrete
Leafy garage of cellular concrete, built around 1980
Wire rope system for roses on garage
New construction of aerated concrete, even before plastering, shutter boxes and insulation cladding along the basement ceiling are visible
bare brickwork made of gas concrete
Photo detail above: insulation in the basement ceiling
Ytong/gas concrete with insulation