This section tells you how to plant your grapevines. Container plants can be bought from spring to late autumn from many nurseries, while bare-root plants are available from vine nurseries in spring. A grapevine cultivated from suitable stock should produce a full yield after 4 years (refer to the sequence of images).
Nowadays, the commercially available grapevines are almost always grafted onto vigorous rootstock. Ideally, they grow in-ground for a year before being potted up, and have 1-2 green shoots. Vines with a lignified stem above the graft were for sale last year and are back on the shelves. Old and gnarled vines in large containers come from the rotational clearing of vineyards. They are - like most vineyard varieties - usually susceptible to downy mildew.
All vines do best in a Planting Area of about 0.5 to 1sqm. If this is not possible, such as on the footpath adjacent to a house wall, then an area the size of a large plate is sufficient, as long as the adjacent pavement is relatively permeable.
Note: do not plant vines in the vicinity of trees, shrubs, conifers or other, old vines in your garden, because the root competition will prevent them from developing. However, it is possible to plant several varieties of grapevines into the same planting area ("quiver" style arrangement).
Planting usually takes place in spring, however container vines can be planted throughout the year, as long as the ground is frost-free. The planting hole has to be dug at least two spades wide and deep, and the subsoil needs to be cultivated ie loosened.
If necessary, incorporate some drainage, as vines don't tolerate waterlogging! Next the stake is rammed in. Backfill with a layer of (sieved) fine soil, place the vine in the hole, backfill with topsoil and carefully tamp the soil around the vine, establish a watering ring (a slightly mounded earth ring around the plant) and water the plant in with 5-10 litres of water. The swollen bud union should be approximately 8-12cm above the ground. A paraffin layer protecting the vine from drying out may still be present, but will eventually crumble away.
The stem is then tied to the stake below the bud union. The strong main shoot is also tied to the stake and any further shoots are cut off and removed. Mulch the planting area. In an open field situation (eg vineyard) it is necessary to protect the vines against foraging deer, rabbits etc.
Before planting these vines, they have to be put in water with the roots for approx. 1 day. Cutting back the roots is quite common, however recent research has shown that the roots contain valuable nutrient resources, hence trimming them is actually no longer recommended. Depending on the development stage of the vine and weather conditions, bud burst can take 1 - 4 weeks. The most vigorous young shoot gets tied to the stake, all other shoots are removed.
In wine-growing regions - at the very least - it is prohibited to plant non-grafted vines. Nevertheless, we will briefly describe their planting techniques. The cuttings (with 3-5 buds) are cut in late winter, wrapped in PE-foil, stored in the fridge, and put in water for a few hours before planted out with the stake in a mix of garden soil and sand. The cutting is planted so that the tips of the buds face slightly upwards (original growth direction), and to a depth whereby the uppermost bud is just above the ground level. After watering in, the soil is then covered with a layer of sand. It is necessary to keep the planting area moist during the following weeks. As soon as the buds burst, the cutting is carefully tied to the stake. This whole process can be done in a container in a protected location, and the vine planted out later.




