Grapevine Pruning in Summer

Vigorous young vines tend to produce shoots up to several metres long. During the training phase ie in the first three years this is acceptable, because an abundant biomass actually strengthens the vine. However, in the following years such shoots may become a nuisance. But shortening them encourages the growth of axillary shoots (Image 02), which may grow just as vigorously as the previously pruned shoots. 

Axillary shoots from the leaf axils are usually only pruned if they are extremely long or as vigorous as the associated main shoot. During training, axillary shoots are not trimmed, because their carbon dioxide assimilation actually strengthens the plant.

Often summer pruning is carried out to achieve a very neat appearance of the grapevine espalier (Image 03). Vines without summer pruning are much bushier and grow further into the space away from the façade (Image 04). Summer pruning also reduces the workload for winter pruning, because the vine is already more manageable (Image 05). 

An alternative to summer pruning may be to let all shoots grow fully and then, either partially or entirely, change to Rod Pruning or Cane Pruning during the next winter pruning, which means all that vigour can be transferred to the  grapes. In later years, it will become easier to establish a balance between growth vigour and fruitfulness.

In a broader sense, summer canopy management also includes "foliage thinning" around the grape zones in late summer. Single leaves which cover the ripening grapes are removed; this is best done in 2 - 3 stages over 2 weeks, never all at once due to risk of grape sunburn. Thinning of foliage does not mean that the grapes will be sweeter, but they will colour better. In addition, the grapes dry faster after rain, preventing botrytis bunch rot. However, when in doubt, foliage thinning should be omitted.